Spandex vs Elastane vs Lycra – What’s the Difference & Which Is Best?
- Valinda
- Dec 19, 2023
- 9 min read
Updated: Jul 8
Have you ever checked a clothing label and noticed terms like Spandex, Elastane, or Lycra—and wondered what the difference is? You're not alone. These stretchy materials are often used interchangeably, but they’re not exactly the same. In this article, we’ll break down what each term really means, how they compare in performance, and which option is the most eco-friendly. Whether you're shopping for activewear, underwear, or trying to make more sustainable fashion choices, this guide will help you make sense of it all.
Spandex vs Elastane vs Lycra – What’s the Actual Difference?
What is Spandex?
Spandex is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. Originally developed in the late 1950s by DuPont, spandex is widely used in activewear, swimwear, underwear, and other tight-fitting clothing. In the United States, "spandex" is the most common term, while other regions may use different names for the same material. Chemically, spandex is made from a type of polyurethane, which gives it the ability to stretch up to five times its original length without losing shape. While it's prized for comfort and flexibility, spandex is not biodegradable and can be challenging to recycle, raising concerns about its environmental impact.
What is Elastane?
Elastane is the generic name for the same stretchy fiber known as spandex in the U.S. It’s commonly used throughout Europe and other parts of the world to describe this highly elastic material. Like spandex, elastane is made from polyurethane and can stretch significantly without breaking, making it ideal for athletic wear, leggings, shapewear, and swimwear. Although the terms are often used interchangeably, "elastane" is typically listed on clothing labels in international markets. Despite its versatility, elastane poses sustainability challenges due to its synthetic origin and resistance to biodegradation, making recycling and eco-friendly disposal difficult.
What is Lycra?
Lycra is a brand name for a type of elastane fiber developed by DuPont in 1958. While Lycra is chemically identical to spandex and elastane, it’s marketed as a premium version known for consistent quality, durability, and superior stretch recovery. The name "Lycra" is often used on clothing labels to signify branded performance stretch, especially in activewear, swimwear, and compression garments. Because it’s a trademark, not all elastane or spandex fabrics are Lycra—but all Lycra is elastane. Like other synthetic stretch fibers, Lycra is made from polyurethane and is not biodegradable, making it less ideal from an environmental standpoint.
What is the difference between Spandex and Elastane and Lycra
Elastane and Spandex and Lycra are often used interchangeably, but they essentially refer to the same synthetic fiber known for its exceptional stretch and elasticity. The primary difference lies in their regional naming conventions. In Europe and most of the world, the term "elastane" is used to describe this fiber, while in the United States, it's referred to as "spandex." Functionally and chemically, there's no disparity between the three; they are both made from polyurethane-polyurea copolymer. Whether labeled as lycra, elastane or spandex, these fibers serve the same purpose, providing stretch, comfort, and flexibility to a wide array of clothing and textile products.
Feature | Spandex | Elastane | Lycra |
Type | Generic name (mainly US) | Generic name (mainly Europe) | Branded elastane by DuPont |
Chemical Makeup | Polyurethane-based fiber | Same as spandex | Same as spandex/elastane |
Stretchability | Very high (up to 500%) | Same as spandex | Same as spandex; premium-grade quality |
Durability | High | High | Often higher due to brand standards |
Common Uses | Activewear, swimwear, underwear | Sportswear, leggings, shapewear | High-performance wear, premium stretch |
Name on Labels | Common in US garments | Common in European garments | Seen on branded or premium garments |
Eco-Friendliness | Not biodegradable; hard to recycle | Same as spandex | Same, though some brands aim for better sourcing |
Cost | Lower | Comparable | Typically higher due to branding |
How is Spandex Made
Spandex is primarily produced in China using a process called solution dry spinning, which accounts for over 95% of global production. This method begins by mixing chemicals like macro glycol and diisocyanate to create a prepolymer. The prepolymer then reacts with diamines, triggering a chemical chain reaction.
The mixture is pushed through a spinneret—a device with tiny holes—to form long, stretchy fibers. These fibers are solidified with heat and gas, stretched with compressed air, and coated with a finishing agent like magnesium stearate before being wound onto spools for fabric production.
While efficient, this process relies on toxic chemicals, raising concerns about its environmental and health impacts.
Is Spandex Toxic?
Spandex is generally not considered toxic to wear. The material itself is chemically inert and stable under normal conditions, posing no inherent toxicity risks to human health. However, concerns may arise during the production process due to the chemicals used in manufacturing spandex fibers. During the manufacturing process, spandex fibers involve dissolving a linear, soluble polyurethane in potent solvents like Di Methyl Formamide (DMF), dimethyl acetamide, or dimethyl sulfoxide. Prolonged skin contact with these fibers could potentially trigger skin allergies due to the chemicals used. Workers in the spandex industry have reported occupational health concerns. Additionally, the inability of spandex to absorb sweat might lead to the release of chemicals from dyes and formaldehyde in the fabric, potentially causing allergic reactions like contact dermatitis. Extended wear of spandex can create a conducive environment for various bacterial infections, such as folliculitis and impetigo, due to its moisture-retaining properties.
Is Spandex Eco-Friendly?
The eco-friendliness of spandex, also known as elastane, is a topic of concern within the textile industry. The MADE-BY Benchmark for Fibers, initially published in 2009 and periodically updated since, provides a comprehensive assessment of various fibers based on their environmental impact.
Among its classifications, spandex falls under Class E, which comprises fibers considered less eco-friendly. This category includes viscose (including bamboo-derived), conventional cotton, nylon, rayon, elastane (spandex), and wool. The assessment places spandex among materials with higher environmental footprints due to factors like the manufacturing process involving potent chemicals and its non-biodegradable nature. In contrast, Class A fibers, regarded as the most sustainable, encompass mechanically recycled polyester and nylon, organic flax, hemp, and recycled cotton and wool. While spandex remains valuable for its stretch and durability, its environmental impact positions it among fibers requiring further innovations for sustainability.
Spandex poses challenges in terms of eco-friendliness due to several reasons:
Chemical Production Process: Spandex production involves the use of various chemicals, including solvents like Di Methyl Formamide (DMF) or dimethyl sulfoxide, which are potent and potentially harmful to humans and the environment if not handled and disposed of properly.
Non-Biodegradable Nature: Spandex fibers are not easily biodegradable, contributing to environmental waste when disposed of in landfills. This inability to break down naturally prolongs their presence in the environment, exacerbating waste management issues.
Energy Intensive Manufacturing: The production of spandex requires significant energy consumption, contributing to carbon emissions and environmental impact.
Microfiber Pollution: When washed, spandex fabrics release microfibers, contributing to microplastic pollution in water bodies, potentially harming aquatic life.
These factors collectively contribute to spandex being categorized as less eco-friendly compared to other fibers, prompting a need for innovations in its production, recycling, and disposal methods to mitigate its environmental impact.
Sustainable Alternatives to Spandex
If spandex fabric raises environmental concerns, what are the alternatives? Fear not! There are a few promising options to explore for a sustainable stretch. Let's dive into some contenders for eco-conscious elasticity.
Eco LYCRA® T400®
LYCRA, a longstanding favorite among consumers, has introduced Eco LYCRA® T400®, signaling a move toward sustainability. This fiber comprises about 68% recycled plastics sourced from diverted landfill materials and renewable bio-based resources, all while retaining the classic comfort and shape-holding characteristics of traditional Lycra. Although not entirely composed of recycled materials, it marks a commendable eco-friendly stride. Brands like Esprit have already adopted this fiber for their garments, showcasing promising results.
DuPont™ Sorona®
Despite any negative connotations linked to names with the "Rona" suffix, Sorona® by DuPont™ stands out as a sustainable exception. This partially plant-based fiber, consisting of 37% Industrial Dent Corn and polyester, is recyclable in standard polyester recycling streams. Similar to Eco LYCRA® T400®, Sorona® isn't entirely eco-friendly due to its polyester content, yet it represents a notable advancement. Although whether it will overtake spandex remains uncertain, several renowned brands like Timberland and The North Face have already embraced Sorona®, elevating it as a strong alternative.
ECONYL
Econyl, a revolutionary material in the realm of sustainable fashion, stands as a beacon of innovation in the textile industry. Crafted from regenerated nylon, Econyl represents a paradigm shift towards eco-consciousness by repurposing discarded materials like fishing nets, fabric scraps, and industrial plastic into a high-quality, versatile fabric. This closed-loop recycling process not only diverts waste from landfills and oceans but also significantly reduces the carbon footprint associated with traditional nylon production. Econyl embodies durability and performance, offering properties akin to virgin nylon while championing environmental sustainability. Its applications span various sectors, from fashion and swimwear to interior design and accessories, marking a significant stride towards a more circular and responsible approach within the fashion landscape. As consumers increasingly seek sustainable alternatives, Econyl emerges as a frontrunner, embodying both style and environmental stewardship.
Blended Spandex
While some clothing brands use spandex in less eco-conscious ways, others opt for responsible practices. Some brands take a conscientious route by blending spandex with sustainable fabrics such as organic cotton, Lyocell, or hemp, ensuring that their garments contain less than 10% spandex. This percentage aligns with the Global Organic Textile Standard's criteria for organic fibers containing spandex. Some brands incorporate recycled polyester, organic cotton, and Lenzing Lyocell, maintaining spandex at 10% or lower in their clothing. These approaches showcase a commendable commitment to eco-friendliness.
Brands that use Recycled Spandex
In recent years, a growing trend has emerged in the fashion industry: the utilization of recycled materials to create more sustainable and eco-friendly clothing. Among these efforts, several brands have embraced the concept of recycled spandex, demonstrating a commitment to both innovation and environmental responsibility.
Adidas by Stella McCartney
Adidas by Stella McCartney stands as a pioneering force in sustainable fashion, exemplifying a commitment to eco-conscious practices. A notable aspect of their approach lies in the innovative use of recycled spandex in their clothing lines. Collaborating with Stella McCartney, Adidas integrates recycled spandex into their athletic wear, blending style, performance, and sustainability seamlessly. This initiative not only reduces the strain on virgin resources but also addresses the challenges associated with spandex's environmental impact. By harnessing recycled materials, this partnership sets a remarkable standard in the fashion industry, illustrating that high-performance sportswear can coexist harmoniously with eco-friendly principles.
Patagonia
Patagonia stands as a beacon of sustainability within the apparel industry, championing eco-conscious practices. Among their innovative approaches, Patagonia integrates recycled spandex into their clothing lines, showcasing their commitment to reducing environmental impact. By utilizing recycled spandex, sourced from diverted materials like fishing nets and discarded fabrics, Patagonia not only lessens waste but also demonstrates a dedication to circularity. This forward-thinking approach aligns with their ethos of responsible production, offering customers high-performance garments that prioritize both durability and environmental stewardship. Patagonia's utilization of recycled spandex serves as a testament to their ongoing efforts in reshaping the fashion industry toward a more sustainable future.
Mara Hofman Swimwear
Mara Hoffman's swimwear collection, characterized by its vibrant designs and ethical focus, stands at the forefront of sustainable fashion with its innovative use of recycled polyester. Embracing a commitment to environmental responsibility, Hoffman integrates recycled polyester into her swimwear line, transforming discarded plastic materials into stunning, high-quality garments. By utilizing recycled polyester, derived from post-consumer waste such as plastic bottles and other sources, her brand significantly reduces its reliance on virgin materials and minimizes its environmental impact. This approach not only mitigates the accumulation of plastic in landfills and oceans but also demonstrates the potential for fashion to be both aesthetically captivating and environmentally conscientious. Hoffman's swimwear, crafted with recycled polyester, not only embodies her signature style but also serves as a testament to her dedication to sustainable practices within the fashion industry, inspiring a more conscious approach to swimwear fashion.
Outerknown
Outerknown stands out as a beacon of sustainable fashion, showcasing a commitment to environmental consciousness by incorporating recycled polyester into their clothing lines. Embracing innovation and eco-friendly practices, Outerknown harnesses recycled materials, including spandex, to craft stylish and durable garments. By repurposing discarded spandex, they reduce waste and minimize the strain on the environment while maintaining the performance and quality expected from this versatile fabric. This conscious choice reflects their dedication to redefining fashion's future, inspiring a shift towards a more sustainable and responsible industry.
Me Undies
MeUndies, a trailblazer in the realm of sustainable fashion, stands out for its innovative approach by incorporating recycled synthetic materials in their garments. Their commitment to eco-consciousness extends beyond just aesthetics; it's embedded in their very fabric. By using recycled polyester in their garments, MeUndies not only champions comfort and style but also demonstrates a dedication to reducing environmental impact. This choice showcases their forward-thinking approach, blending cutting-edge design with a genuine commitment to sustainability, setting a noteworthy example within the fashion industry.
Avoid Spandex
In this era of heightened environmental awareness, conscious consumers like us are scrutinizing everything we eat, use, and wear to ensure sustainability. If you walk into any activewear store and glance at the label of stretchy apparel, spandex will likely make an appearance. Spandex has indeed solidified its place in the textile industry but so has the imperative need to safeguard our environment. While relatively better environmentally speaking, spandex falls short of being truly eco-friendly. Its manufacturing involves harmful chemicals, it lacks biodegradability or compostability, and recycling it proves challenging. For those with spandex items, consider donation, take-back programs, or maximizing their use through DIY projects before disposal.
The journey toward reducing spandex's stronghold or its eventual disappearance from the fashion industry is ongoing. Meanwhile, let's exercise our control by curbing our reliance on elastane materials and exploring eco-friendly alternatives, thereby safeguarding our planet from the textile industry's adverse impacts.
Conclusion
While Spandex, Elastane, and Lycra are essentially the same type of synthetic fiber, understanding their differences—especially when it comes to branding and regional usage—can help you make smarter clothing choices. From a sustainability standpoint, all three pose challenges due to their petroleum-based origins and difficulty in recycling. If you're looking to reduce your environmental impact, consider buying garments with a low percentage of stretch fiber or look for certified eco-friendly alternatives.
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